CEG Cap amunt




Pep Pelfort . Gastronomic Studies Centre Menorca

The interest in studying the origins of mayonnaise or mayonnaise sauce now called ( with the double name is obvious conflict ) is not driven by a sense of vindication pseudo- patriotic or folk , but promotes other thoughts regarding the flow human knowledge , creation , invention and its transmission and its relationship to history , as in all elements analyzed in the history of food and nutrition , moreover key aspect human evolution. Apart from the strictly technical point of view is one of the culinary mother sauces , essential for the development of many others, a great impact in the history of the kitchen that lasts in time. Chemically and physically , has the peculiarity that manages to mix oil and water ( egg ), making an emulsion , as explained by the promoter of molecular gastronomy , the researcher Hervé This , which gives it exceptional properties . And so we have analyzed and concluded with this study that this sauce was born and developed in Menorca no doubt be widely known to Menorca at least the first half of the eighteenth century , but quite possibly before . All the arguments put forward so far have been against this, sensed the popular memory Menorca, reflected in the story of the Duke of Richelieu , are refuted in the light of new findings and literature analysis .
A SHORT HISTORY OF THE STORY . That litigation of paternity sauce is interesting, evidenced therein occupied over time distinguished chefs and writers , among others Eisner , Josep Pla , Angel Muro , Dionisio Perez, Teodoro Bardají , Nestor Luján , Joan Perucho , Antonin Carême and, of course , Pedro Ballester . Some of them mentioned the fact that currently call legend, the Duke of Richelieu knew the sauce when served Menorca and popularized in France. This fits with the character Richelieu , living the era of refinement in the kitchen, where many aristocrats and marshals give names sauces : Soubise , Villeroi etc. . The subsequent expansion of the recipes when the French Revolution cooks court remain unemployed and created phenomena such as the restaurant is easy to imagine. To him , in the first hearing after taking Mahon , King Louis XV asked ( do not know whether sexual or culinary sense ) : " How did you find figs on the island? Are as excellent as they say ? "
In any case, it is a legend that does not make much sense to have invented , and has such consistency that even Pedro Ballester , both objective gives you credibility , which sees incompatible with parenthood French sauce , obfuscated a funny poem. Some believe that he was given the name of mayonnaise made ​​much celebrated to commemorate the conquest of Minorca. You can choose to legend, if the story is nice , but otherwise it's better to show it. All the authors refer to the French poem dated 1625 signed by Lancelot . The poem describes in detail how to make the sauce. So if the date were correct , it would finish the question the French knew perfectly sauce in the seventeenth century and even did a little cheesy poems . This spent years looking for it and came to the conclusion that it was in the late nineteenth century , a fact confirmed by the bibliography José- Maria Pisa in April 2013. This was for all that questions referendades to the opinions of French grammar and always consulted with mayonaise related Mahon Richelieu Pisa turns into certainties . Freed from the obstacle of the poem , since there is no argument against the origin of Menorca , just search for data that confirm the legend , turning it into history, and give the name of the rose, the mayonnaise .
Naturally manuscript . However, the most important argument against the origin Menorca was that we have no written reference to Menorca before the French occupation , and especially not quote any time to " manuscript Citadel ." This manuscript is none other than " Art of Cooking " by Brother Roger Francis , published in 1993 by the Institute for Studies Menorquí . And here comes the latest development : to demonstrate that indeed mayonnaise ( for obvious reasons , not the name ) mentioned almost 19 times the manuscript contrary to what said before. His name was in Menorca , before Richelieu Aiolia good. We can do it without resorting to any Franciscan named Adso of Melk , only with the help of a kitchen computer with our software and cooking and diet book Brother Roger . But we must read the manuscript carefully and cook .
DETAILED ANALYSIS OF " THE ART OF COOKING " Brother ROGER . The proof will come in different ways : an empirical , such as the kitchen , the other due to the computerization of different recipes allowing cross data and draw figures , and finally , one that could be called an intuitive philology Almud dietetics . Regarding the first , comes from a nutritional analysis of the book, which requires computerize all the recipes : recipes mathematics must be accurate . To do so , presumably portions calculate weights with old measures . But there comes a point where there is no choice but to cook to calculate it: in the context of an overall balanced nutrition recipes , flavors perfectly identifiable by any palate Mediterranean recipes are a group of silly , by the taste and dietary data : including Aiolia exactly good. And then we do the test : if the cook with mayonnaise ? The result is surprising : try to cook any of the 19 recipes with what we now call aioli , though soft , The result is horrible , bitter and not edible , not only for the present taste , but it sure for a group Franciscan accustomed to eating well in the eighteenth century , so would . Instead , try cooking them replacing where it says Aiolia good for what we now call mayonnaise : all dishes are wonderful , subtle and even modern . In light of the kitchen , there are many more arguments almost always uses Aiolia good Brother Roger asks " tempera " it with lemon juice and mayonnaise . Moreover, the manuscript plays with Aiolia good with different variants . That is, used mayonnaise as a base or agent to bind other sauces , like in the kitchen today : many years ago that was part of Aiolia good culinary heritage of this community. And with that we get to the recipes for collations , occupying almost the entire third book . Collation : In ancient monasteries , conversation or talk about spiritual things , which took place at night , usually after a light meal . Recipes with aubergínies and pumpkins . You imagine a group of Franciscans after an overdose of garlic talking about spiritual things ? This is a light meal ? There is no consistency with the rest of the excellent text : it was mayonnaise , soft refinada.Si a chef , this would already be enough evidence , there is more provided by the computer analysis . Of the 209 recipes in 25 there appears Aiolia . 5 There are a good pairing with aioli and what we now call these quotes Aoli without the adjective good. The good Aiolia miss the second part (the original and Menorca ) on 19 occasions. In total , the proportion is unmatched in any Mediterranean recipe , where different names aioli sauce is important, but limited to a certain number of dishes. Did not understand the interest of the eighteenth century Menorca for all , considering that his crop was scarce at the time. Also , comparing the manuscript with Ciba RE (1923) Ballester , subtitled " uses and customs of the nineteenth century Menorca through your kitchen ." it means that 20% of traditional recipes disappear only 100 years. This is only possible now , and thanks to the grandmothers , because of fast food and television. Also, when speaking of mayonnaise Ballester , recommended by the same type of seafood that Brother Roger with Aiolia good, as would be logical if all that has occurred is the renaming Aiolia good omnivore mayonnaise under the influence of French cuisine at the time. Swift also cites a recipe for snails with garlic - oil on the technical aspect is very reminiscent of the first written record of a mayonnaise production of the book " Nuevo Arte de Cocina " Juan of Altimiras ( 1745 ) . What really draws attention to the similarities of techniques , the expression " a garlic Hara " , which now sounds strange and I suppose literal translation of Menorca. Altimiras is the pseudonym of the Aragonese Franciscan friar Raymond Gomez, cook of the convent of San Diego Zaragoza. The easiest assumption is that the preparation had met through his Franciscan brothers Ciutadella much more logical by the French. In any case, good expression Aiolia has many parallels with other Minorca incorporating inextricably good adjective to the noun that refers to another product : the pepper , oil bond Brother Roger .
The fact stating that the sauce was quoted Roger Fray much older Menorca is based on different considerations: a recipe very detailed and well explained , there is the technical explanation of Aiolia good. The only possible reason is that Brother Roger knew all his contemporaries knew Menorcans the draw perfectly . I needed time to spread throughout the island, which is common sense to know Menorca or multiple roundabouts , road or with Kane and less in 1750 , or things or people traveling from Mahon to Ciutadella easily . That is not called mayonnaise , if not for the influence of Richelieu understandable : no ciutadellenc would. And yet we're talking about a sauce that was made as a Brick (for the story of Richelieu ) and Citadel ( the manuscript ) so contemporary . Finally, it had to be older by sparse population olive eighteenth century popularized in a period with good olive oil production .
In conclusion, mayonnaise or mayonnaise , the most universal of all , once born in Minorca. Called least in the mid- eighteenth century , Aiolia good. Swept the world through the ubiquitous French cuisine that had access to conquer the island , especially the fascination of Richelieu .
With these confirmations or without them , we should edit the manuscript Brother Roger in Menorca today incorporating mayonnaise , either text or adapted footers . A claim that can be made from the backbone to the dining Menorca place it deserves.
I just humorous , essential ingredient in cooking with love : the Island Council should create the DO Mayonnaise or Mayonnaise Mahon Menorca register the name , and asked copyrights brands of mayonnaise and all the chefs in the world 's debts and allocate it to all descendants of the natives were the geniuses who invented . Since then , just to be different and traditions are in Menorca mayonnaise would say Aiolia good.
NOTE : You can view the full study www.cegmenorca.org

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